When you get a saltwater chlorine generator you are making a statement that you are going to be buying and using fewer chemicals, and part of the reduced maintenance is that you don’t have to check your pool chemical balance very often. This isn’t entirely true, you may still need to periodically shock the water and you should measure the chemical balance prior to use if it is a spa and at least once a week if a pool. Over time the chlorine demand of the water will go up as more and more organic material enter the water. A point may be reached where the chlorine demand for the water is the same or exceeds the chlorine output from your electronic chlorinator. You will notice that when the chlorine is low it takes longer over time for it to bring the chlorine levels back up. You may also have to increase the power level to make more chlorine as the water is consuming more chlorine than your chlorine generator can make at the lower power level. This is more likely to happen in a Spa that is used often and if you have a spa chlorine generator. A Spa chlorinator is designed to make much less chlorine than a pool chlorinator as you do not want to over-chlorinate your spa which could lead to corrosion.

Pool or spa shocking is the addition of a sufficient dose of chlorine: calcium hypochlorite (cal-hypo), liquid chlorine, sodium dichlor or non-chlorine shock (potassium monopersulfate or MPS). The purpose of a shock treatment is to break-down organic waste contaminants which cause odor, cloudy water, and a decrease in the efficiency of saltwater chlorinators. After treatment, water quality and clarity are often completely restored and you may be able to lower the power level of the saltwater chlorine generator.

When a spa is used every day there can be a quick buildup of organic material, and the water may look just fine and not smell, but the spa chlorine generator is having a harder time keeping up as the days go buy. If you increase the power level of the spa chlorinator that will also decrease the life span of the chlorinator as it will be on longer each day. Shocking the spa is a better alternative and you have to decide on a chlorine or chlorine-free shock.

• If you don’t want to add chlorine, then the chlorine-free shock is the way to go. Just follow the directions on the container.
• If you don’t mind adding chlorine the spa chlorine generator will not mind. This will shock the spa water, and give it some chlorine which is less chlorine that the electronic chlorinator has to make.

• Current density, the current per square inch between the plates
• If self cleaning, the period of time between reversing polarity
• Length of chlorine production time

Current density

The current density is one thing that you, the owner of the chlorine generator can have little effect on. The only things that you can do are to set the water temperature and the salt level. The other things that effect the current density are in the design of the cell and the power supply.

The titanium plates typically have a life span of 10,000 hours of chlorine production with the current density at 0.2 amps per square inch. At 0.4 amps per square inch, the life span would be cut in half or even less, but the amount of chlorine produced would also go up.

The factors that effect the current density include

• Spacing between the plates
• Voltage applied to the plates
• Conductivity of the water

 Spacing between the plates: As the plates get closer together the current will go up for the same voltage. The spacing between plates and the voltage are part of the design of the chlorine generator and the manufacturer will typically give a recommended salt concentration which would provide the proper current density for the spacing and voltage of the chlorinator. The proper current density should be one that will exceed the warranty period of the chlorinator. If there is more salt then the current would be higher, if there was less salt the current would be lower.

 Voltage applied to the plates: Some chlorine generators have the ability to change the voltage to keep the current density constant. These will be able to work with greater salt concentration ranges and water temperatures.

 Conductivity of the water: The primary factors are salt concentration and water temperature. As the temperature goes up the current density also goes up. A pool chlorine generator would probably be designed for the proper current density at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. To use a pool chlorine generator in a spa, where the water is 104 degrees Fahrenheit could be a very big problem. At the higher temperature the current density would go up quite a bit and it would also make a lot more chlorine. You would probably not be able to adjust it low enough to make the right amount of chlorine. Over-chlorination can lead to corrosion of the spa heater and other parts. You can of course in this example keep the salt low or make sure that your chlorinator is the type that adjusts the voltage.

 Reversing Polarity

If you have a reversing polarity chlorine generator, then the coating on the titanium plates probably has a blend with Ruthenium Oxide. Every time the plate voltage reverses that can decrease the life of the plates but when done properly the cell will still meet the life expectancy of the chlorine generator. This is a function of the chlorine generator design.

 With the non-reversing chlorine generator the plates will need to be cleaned more often. The manual cleaning probably also effects the life of the plates.

 Length of Chlorine Production

This is the one factor that the owner of the chlorine generator can have a big impact on. The longer the chlorinator is on, that is getting closer to the life of the cell. You will get a longer life from the cell if you are able to have it on less. This of course leads to the chlorine demand of the water and the chlorine level you are trying to achieve. Some of the factors that can help to reduce the time per day the chlorine generator needs to be on include:

Table of things you can do to lower chlorine demand

Conclusion

Always follow the manufacturers recommended salt concentration for your chlorine generator. There are quite a few things you can do to help reduce the chlorine demand on your pool or spa, pick the ones that you can easily do and hopefully you will be able to lower the output level on your chlorine generator, make sure to measure the free chlorine every couple days.

written by Scott Lenney at  www.controlomatic.com

 Lower cost chlorinators typically exceed the 0.2 amps to require less titanium in the product as the titanium and the coating is the most expensive part and they can provide a lower cost product that will not last as long. For a swimming pool this may not be a problem for a one or two year warranty as the season for a pool is 5 months, and if it is on for 12 hours per day then in two years the chlorine generator would have only been on 3650 hours. Even if there is a longer warranty that may not matter as the manufacturer figures what are the chances after two years for a warranty claim.

When looking to purchase a chlorine generator and talking to your friends who have one it isn’t enough that they like the product. Almost everyone who has converted to a saltwater chlorine generator likes the change. When reading a blog about a particular chlorinator and the excitement of the writer on how wonderful the water is and how they endorse that particular product is sort of silly, especially if they bought a cheap one which makes lots of chlorine the first months due to the high current to the plates and they are in their first month. Instead look to those who recommend a chlorine generator where they are past the first year and any problems they may have had the manufacturer has backed up the warranty and service.

There are also two versions of the ChlorSimple. The ChlorSimplehas no light shows, you can’t set the power level and does have self cleaning. If it is making too much chlorine you can add a standard timer and plug the ColorChlor into the timer to lower the chlorine production.

The ChlorSimple Ultra has light shows and includes 6 high output LED red/green/blue LED’s. It also has three output levels that can be set by turning on the ChlorSimple while it is out of the water making it hard to accidentally change the power level while using the pool. Since most above ground pools don’t come with lights the ChlorSimple Ultra makes the pool much more usable at night. The light shows are similar to the ColorChlor with single color and fading between colors.

The chlorine production of the ChlorSimple is between 0.2 and 0.3 pounds per day of chlorine and depends on the water temperature and salt concentration. The power supply is 12 volts and can provide 5 amps for 60 watts of chlorine producing power.

 Ionizers: These are usually copper and or silver electrodes which introduce soluble copper and or silver ions to the pool when an electric current is passed through the unit. Copper is used for algae control and silver for bacteria control. While once touted as “chlorine-free” systems, they are now mainly sold as devices to be used with low levels of chlorine. These ‘heavy metal’ devices (so-named because of the high density of elemental metals) are sold in the pool industry as ‘alternative’ sanitizers.

 They have several shortcomings, however. First, in Canada, silver is not allowed as a sanitizer and is not even allowed to be listed in any accompanying literature. Second, silver is relatively slow in its ability to sanitize. Third, although copper is an extremely effective algaecide, it has the propensity to precipitate and discolour pool surfaces with a tenacious stain. Finally, these devices are not oxidizers, so 90% of the workload of chlorine is not fulfilled.

 Magnets: Using magnets as water conditioners, mainly for pH and scale control, is possibly a scam. Aggressive marketing and threats of legal action often silence the opponents of magnetic devices. These devices are also sold as a way to increase gas mileage when attached to the gas tank and as a way to increase blood circulation when attached to the body by adhesive tape.

 Oxygen generators: These devices pass current between two electrodes resulting in the electrolysis of water creating two volumes of hydrogen at the cathode and one volume of oxygen at the anode. The word “nascent” oxygen is often used to give them a scientific flair. The sanitation properties of oxygen are flaunted. This weakly soluble oxygen has little – if any – ability to kill bacteria or oxidize organics and the failure of such systems was once the topic on the TV show ‘Hard Copy’.

 Ozone Generators: These create 0³ by passing air through either Corona Discharge (CD) or Ultraviolet (UV) Radiation. Ozone – an extremely powerful oxidizing agent – is so unstable that is must be generated at the point of entry into the pool. Due to its activity and low solubility, it does not leave a required residual past 22 minutes in the water and must be used with chlorine or bromine. It is not a stand-alone system. Allowing ozone to accumulate in enclosed areas can also compromise the health of the individual.

 UV Devices: It is known that bacteria are killed when subjected to certain wave lengths of ultraviolet light. You may have seen surgical instruments sterilized under UV light. Having UV irradiate water passing through a transparent pipe in the return line may kill the bacteria in the pipe, but it has no effect on sanitizing the remaining water in the pool. UV leaves no residual and no ability to oxidize. Trojan Technologies of London, Ontario, which sells UV generators, dismisses the use of UV technology for use in pools.

Oxidative Catalysts: These devices use a cartridge attached to the return line which contains metallic copper and finely divided elemental silver. There are no electrical components. The copper and silver dissolve by erosion or corrosion. Finely divided silver is known to be an oxidative catalyst in the synthesis of certain hydrocarbons. These devices claim that they can control algae and can assist chlorine in killing bacteria. This device is incompatible with bromine sanitizers. It has no ability to oxidize. While little staining occurs with copper, it is often difficult to measure any copper residual in the water. Some critics of this device say it is a form of homeopathy, a branch of medicine, which dilutes the drug to a point where it cannot be detected and yet claims medicinal results. Claims for silver efficacy are not allowed in Canada.

Here is the overall introduction to the ColorChlor and TechniChlor.

Here is a videw demonstrating changing the power level using tap technology.

The most common inground spa is tied in with a main pool to share the same filtration and pump equipment. This means that the inground spa will use the same water as the swimming pool. In these cases the ColorChlor will not work as the chlorine generator needs to be able to support the full water volume for both the swimming pool and the in-ground spa.

Portable Spas and Chlorine Generation

What is know as a portable spa is usually made out of fiberglass and is not connected to a swimming pool. The ColorChlor and TechniChlor were designed to support water volumes up to 600 gallons and are a perfect fit for almost all portable spas.

The chlorine generators designed by ControlOMatic have been specifically engineered to work with just about any application – new or existing.

A spa installation usually has a voltage of 220 volts to support the water heater. The ColorChlor and TechniChlor operate off a normal outlet ( 120VAC ) and require a GFI. The Spa Install may have included a 120VAC GFI outlet either ender your enclosure or exposed through a weather-proof box. The addition of either a ColorChlor or TechniChlor will be very easy. If the Spa Install doesn’t include this type of an outlet, one will need to be added and you should always have a licensed electrician perform this installation. ]]> http://www.spachlorinator.com/blog/hot-tub/how-does-a-colorchlor-or-technichlor-effect-a-new-spa-install/feed/ 0 http://www.spachlorinator.com/blog/technical/possible-confusion-over-power-level-settings/ http://www.spachlorinator.com/blog/technical/possible-confusion-over-power-level-settings/#comments Fri, 03 Oct 2008 05:01:14 +0000 Administrator http://spachlorinator.com/blog/?p=21

When the power level is set to 10 on the ColorChlor or TechniChlor, the unit will always be on except when in a light show. Power level 10 also doesn’t use temperature compensation.

If you use your SPA every day, and keep the power level set to 10, there is a good chance that the chlorine level is just right. If you don’t use your SPA for a couple days there is also a good chance that at this power level it will make too much chlorine when it isn’t used as the unit will be on all the time. If you set the power level to 6, then when you use your SPA the boost mode will keep it on for 24 hours after the light show which is like power level 10 for one day. Then if you don’t use your SPA for a couple days there will likely not be too much chlorine production. Note that power levels 6 through 9 will all be on for the full 24 hours after a light show which is the boost mode. The boost mode will increase the on time by 3.

The power levels chlorine production on times are:

PL 10: ON 100%, no temperature compensation.

PL 9: ON 83%, boost level 100% for 24 hours

PL 8: ON 68%, boost level 100% for 24 hours

PL 7: ON 51%, boost level 100% for 24 hours

PL 6: ON 34%, boost level 100% for 24 hours

PL 5: ON 25%, boost level 75% for 24 hours

PL 4: ON 16%, boost level 48% for 24 hours

PL 3: ON 8%, boost level 24% for 24 hours

PL 2: ON 4%, boost level 12% for 24 hours

PL 1: ON 0.5%, boost level 1.5% for 24 hours